Visiting Paris: The Honest Version
It's easy to get Paris wrong. I learned that the hard way on my first morning, when I stood in line for an hour at a café on Rue de Rivoli, only to be handed a tiny cup of coffee that cost €4.50. I’d been told Parisian coffee is a ritual, but I’d missed the part where it’s supposed to be consumed standing at the counter, not lingering at a table like a tourist. By the time I figured it out, I’d already spent more on coffee than I’d budgeted for the day. Instead of chasing the Eiffel Tower selfies, I discovered that the real magic of Paris happens in the quiet corners. My favorite spot is Le Comptoir du Relais, a tiny bistro on Rue de l'Abbaye in Saint-Germain. It’s not on every tourist map, but the owners have been serving the same classic French dishes for decades. I had the steak frites for €18, which included a side of crispy fries and a small salad. The portions are generous, and the wine list is surprisingly affordable—just €6 for a glass of house red. They open at 12:30...